An uncovered garden table takes the weather from above and below. Rain sits on the top and works into the joints, UV fades the surface unevenly where the parasol shades it, and by autumn the underframe is marked where water has run down and pooled at the feet.
We make outdoor table covers to measure, in our workshop in Murcia, Spain — round, square, rectangular or oval, in whatever dimensions you send us. A cover cut to your table sheds water off the edge instead of holding it in a slack pool on the top, which is what shortens the life of most cheap covers and the table underneath.
If your table stays outside with the chairs tucked under it, you probably want a table and chairs cover rather than a table cover: one piece over the whole set, cut to clear the chair backs. Both are below.
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The decision is about how you store the set, not about the table.
A table cover goes over the tabletop and down the legs, with the chairs stored separately or brought inside. It’s the tighter fit and the easier one to put on single-handed.
A table and chairs cover goes over the whole set with the chairs pushed under, in one piece cut to clear the chair backs. It’s what most people want if the set lives on a terrace year-round and there’s nowhere to put six chairs.
Either way we need the same three measurements, plus the height to the top of the chair backs if you’re covering the set. Chairs pushed in change the depth as well as the height, so measure with them in the position you’ll actually leave them.
Round tables are where fixed-size covers fail most often: a cover sold as “round, large” is a compromise between a 120 cm and a 150 cm top, and the difference shows up as slack that catches wind.
For a round table cover we need the diameter and the height. For square and rectangular, the length, the width and the height. For oval, the longest and shortest axes. If the table extends, tell us both the closed and extended sizes and we’ll advise which to build to.
Add nothing for tolerance — we build that in. And measure to the floor, not to the underside of the tabletop, unless you want a cover that stops at the apron.
Three numbers in centimetres: length, width and height to the floor. For a round table, the diameter instead of length and width. For an oval, the longest and shortest axes. Measure with the parasol out of the table and the chairs in the position you’ll leave them.
Yes, and for a set that lives outside it’s usually the better option. One cover over the whole set, cut to clear the chair backs. We need the table measurements plus the height to the top of the chairs when pushed in.
Tell us both sizes. Most people store the table closed and want the cover cut to that, but if you leave it extended through the season we’ll build to the open size instead.
The frame will survive, but the tabletop won’t necessarily — glass tops mark with standing water, timber greys and lifts, and ceramic and HPL surfaces collect dirt in the texture. The cover protects the surface and the fixings more than the frame.
Not if it’s cut to the table. Pooling is what happens when a cover is bigger than the piece: the slack sits flat and holds water. A made-to-measure cover is tensioned across the top, so rain runs to the edge and off.
No. Take the parasol out and cover it separately — a cover cut around a pole can’t seal, and the pole rubs a hole in the fabric where it exits.
